How to Choose a Vintage Leather Jacket: A Guide to Leather Types, Texture, and Aging

ブランド古着のレザージャケット、革で何が変わる?

With designer vintage leather jackets,
the comfort changes entirely depending on the type of leather.

In this article, we introduce the representative leather materials used in leather jackets.
Let’s find the perfect piece for you.


Leather jackets: What’s the difference in the leather?

Even with a black jacket,
the weight and drape change depending on the leather.

There are three things that change:
how it feels in your hands,
how it drapes over your shoulders,
and how it looks years down the line.

If you’re choosing an archival piece,
you’ll want to look at the leather before the design.


Classification of Leather Materials

Category Examples Description
Raw Hide
(Animal Type)
Lamb
Sheep
Calf
Goat
Which animal the leather comes from
Processing/Finish Suede
Nappa
Nubuck
How the surface is finished
Processing/State Mouton Sheep leather with the wool left on


Representative Leather Materials

Comparison Lamb Calf Goat Sheep
Source Lamb Calf Goat Sheep
(Usually adult)
Characteristics Light & soft Firm & durable Light & strong Soft & easy to handle
Softness
Firmness
Weight Light Slightly heavy Light Light
Surface Very fine grain Uniform & smooth Fine textured grain Soft texture
Aging Conforms to body Develops luster Grain deepens Becomes soft & supple


Lamb

Leather from a young lamb.
Its appeal lies in the lightness and softness you feel the moment you pick it up.

It has a supple drape that follows the body's lines,
making it common in collarless designs like Chanel’s or in tailored jackets.

However, it scratches easily.
Handle it with care if you want to keep it looking pristine.


Calf

Leather from a calf.
It is fine-grained and firm.

Heavier than lamb, but that weight helps hold the jacket’s shape.
Perfect for days when you want to look sharp.

With wear, it develops a luster,
and the sharp, crisp impression softens over time.


Goat

Goat leather.
Light yet highly durable fibers.

The surface has a fine, pebbled texture that becomes more distinct with use.

Because scratches are less noticeable,
it’s a great choice for a piece you want to wear every day.


Sheep

A term often used as a general name for sheepskin.
It has more thickness than lamb, and is characterized by its natural grain and soft appearance.

For those who want to enjoy a vintage leather vibe.

Suede

Suede is leather with the underside brushed to create a nap.

It’s characterized by a soft touch and matte texture.
Lamb suede is light and supple, while goat suede offers a balance of lightness and strength.

As it’s used, the nap settles,
deepening the material's vintage-like expression.

Mouton

Mouton is sheep leather with the wool left intact.

Its biggest feature is the ability to enjoy the softness of leather
combined with the warmth of wool.

Pieces with a suede-like surface have a classic vintage appearance.

Conversely, "Nappa mouton," which is finished with a smooth surface,
offers a refined, coat-like look.

Though it has some weight,
it is a material with an overwhelming presence as a winter outer layer.


Leather Jacket FAQs Before You Buy

Q. Where can I find the type of leather?

First, check the inner tag and product details.
However, vintage items sometimes have no label.
In that case, check the grain, the softness to the touch,
and the weight when holding it.

Q. Should the size be exact or slightly larger?

Leather conforms to your body the more you wear it.
Lamb leather, in particular, is soft and adapts easily.
Decide whether you want it loose from the start or want to break it in for a perfect fit—choose based on your ideal silhouette.

Q. What if it gets wet in the rain?

Don’t panic—gently wipe off moisture with a dry cloth.
Then, let it dry naturally in a well-ventilated, shaded area.
Avoid using a hairdryer to speed up the process, as the heat puts strain on the leather.

Q. What if I’m worried about the smell of the leather?

The first step is to air it out.
Hang it on a hanger and let it rest in a place away from direct sunlight.
If the smell persists, we recommend consulting a specialist.

Q. What should I be careful about when storing it?

Create an environment where the leather can "breathe."
Store it in a spacious area away from direct sunlight and humidity.
A tightly packed closet can cause the jacket to lose its shape.


Leather that has lived through time can never be replicated.

That’s why you should choose the piece you truly want to wear today!


▶ Timeless, Wearable Now: 5 Vintage Designer Looks

▶ What is the popular archival fashion of today?

▶ Check out our Coat/Jacket Collection

1996 CC Mark Button Leather Jacket #36 Brown

1996 CC Mark Button Leather Jacket #36 Brown

View products
Leather jacket #48 Black

Leather jacket #48 Black

View products
Leather collarless jacket #38 Beige

Leather collarless jacket #38 Beige

View products
Leather Serie Button Stand Collar Jacket #48 Black

Leather Serie Button Stand Collar Jacket #48 Black

View products
If you're looking to buy vintage in Omotesando and Aoyama,

VINTAGE QOO TOKYO Omotesando Main Store

ACCESS
5-2-6 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
2-minute walk from Omotesando Station A1 Exit

TEL

03-6804-2201

Opening Hours
11:30 - 20:00

Categories
HERMÈS/CHANEL/Vintage Apparel/Watch/Jewelry etc...