It’s the same Hermès, yet vintage pieces have a character all their own.
The colors, the leather, the hardware.
They preserve details that are no longer being made today.
COLOR
Some Colors Are Gone for Good
Hermès refreshes its color palette every season.
As a result, shades that once existed may no longer be available today.
The Kelly 32 in Rouge Vif, made in 1994, is a perfect example.
A pure, vivid red with no hint of blue.
Search today’s color palette, and you won’t find quite the same shade.
1994 Kelly 32, Rouge Vif／1995 Mini Kelly, Rouge Vif
Blue Jean is another color rarely seen today.
Just as the name suggests, it’s a soft, washed-denim blue.
1998 Trim 31, Blue Jean／2007 Evelyne TPM, Blue Jean
Anemone is a vivid, rich purple with a red undertone.
Unlike cooler, blue-based purples, it leans closer to magenta.
Depending on the light, it shifts from a brighter violet to a deeper, more saturated purple.
2014 Mini Plume 20, Anémone／2021 Evelyne III PM, Anémone
Parchemin, Cuivre, Bleu Indigo.
Discontinued colors seem to hold a little of the era in which they were created.
2002 Plume 28, Parchemin／2016 Birkin 30, Cuivre／1994 Kelly 28, Bleu Indigo
LEATHER
Leathers That Have Disappeared
Leather is where the differences become even more apparent.
Courchevel features a fine embossed grain.
Lightweight and known for its vivid color, it was widely used in Hermès bags throughout the 1990s before being succeeded by Epsom.
1995 Kelly 28, Gold／2001 Birkin 40, Gold
Ardennes has a more pronounced grain and a firm, structured feel.
Its rigidity allows the Birkin’s clean, boxy silhouette to hold its shape beautifully.
It was phased out in the early 2000s, as leathers such as Togo and Clémence became more prevalent.
Veau Gulliver is another smooth leather that is no longer used by Hermès.
Sometimes, the name of the leather alone can tell you a lot about a bag’s era.
HARDWARE
When Gold Hardware Was the Norm
Line up a few Courchevel and Ardennes pieces, and you’ll notice that most feature gold hardware.
With Togo, Clémence and Epsom, silver hardware becomes much more common.
Gold hardware brings out the depth of a leather’s color.
Paired with warm browns, it creates a rich, honeyed finish.
Even the subtle fading around the edges and corners has its own appeal—a patina that only time can create.
NOW
The Appeal of Hermès Today
Of course, contemporary Hermès has its own strengths.
Leathers such as Swift and Epsom offer their own balance of softness, structure and practicality.
And with compact options like the Birkin 25, there is now more choice when it comes to size.
If you love substantial leather and a sense of history, vintage may be for you.
If lightness and everyday practicality matter more, a contemporary piece may be the better fit.
Understanding what each era has to offer makes finding the right bag all the more rewarding.
Bright reds like Rouge Tomate and vivid,
blue-toned greens like Vert Vérone are part of what makes modern Hermès so appealing.
Each era has colors that feel uniquely its own.
Old colors. New comfort.
2017 Birkin 25, Rouge Tomate／2016 Constance 3 18, Vert Véronèse
FAQ
Q. Do discontinued Hermès colors ever return?
Sometimes, a color comes back under the same name.
Sometimes, it never does.
Even when a shade returns, a change in leather can alter how it looks. An exact match is rare.
Q. Is vintage Hermès leather more durable?
Not necessarily. Courchevel and Ardennes have pronounced embossed grains that can make scratches less noticeable.
Box calf, on the other hand, develops a beautiful sheen, but small scuffs and marks tend to show more easily.
Each leather ages differently.
Q. How can you tell the age of a Hermès bag?
The quickest way is the leather and color name.
Beyond that, try looking for the letter stamp that indicates the manufacturing year.
If the letter is in a circle, it is from up to the mid-1990s;
if it is in a square, it is from 1997 or later.
So, which one are you drawn to?
A discontinued color and a leather you can no longer find—or a contemporary piece that offers lighter wear and more choice.
Discontinued colors don’t always come back.
If a particular shade catches your eye, it may be worth finding it while you can.
▶ What is the difference between Hermès Togo, Taurillon, and Epsom?
▶ Your first Hermès: What to choose? A guide to 6 classic models and popular colors
